A dusty little corner of the Internet: electronics, computer hardware and software, general aviation, 1980's Mopars, and related sundry.
Posted in Computing on January 14, 2012.
I did this mod many years ago (probably circa 2003/2004) after reading about the "soft touch" version of the Model M produced by Lexmark. The main motivation was some grumbling from my co-workers (even though the guy right next to me also had a Model M). The grease suppresses the "ping" of the buckling spring without affecting the feel of the keyboard too much. It still feels tactile and still has a click. I did this to my 1994 Model M (which I bought brand-new back then).
After some experimentation, I found that placing a small amount of dielectric silicone grease into the springs, avoiding the sides of the barrel, works the best. Using a toothpick or paper clip, I dipped the end into the grease tube and twirled it inside of the spring. The goal is just to dampen the ringing of the spring, not to slug the movement of the spring in the barrel. I used a small acid brush to remove any grease at the top of the spring, which can prevent the spring from seating correctly back into the key. If some grease gets into the barrel, it can be removed with a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol.
Adding more grease gives the keys a softer, slower feel, which I didn't like. Trying to fill the cavity of the key can render the key intermittent or even inoperable. Definitely avoid greasing any of the stabilizer pins/inserts on the wider keys and the space bar. Some grease on the wire space bar stabilizer is OK and eliminates any rattle that it may have.
Posted in Automotive on June 30, 2011.
The national convention was back in Chicago again this year. The car show was at the same venue in Fox Lake along with the Chicagoland Mopar Connection's "Mopars at the Park" show. It was neat seeing such nice FWD Mopars next to the classic iron again. The weather was perfect.
The drags were at Da Grove again as well. I was able to make a few passes. These new tires aren't as sticky as the old Kumhos were. That along with this hair-trigger ceramic clutch had something to do with my launch problems, I think. The cal has been tuned better since the last time, so my MPH was in the 100s even on the worst pass. But I wasn't able to beat my previous E/T. Best was 14.343sec @ 102.90mph. Best MPH was 103.66.
Coolant started getting pushed into the overflow at this point, so I called it quits.
| React | 60' | 1/8 ET | 1/8 MPH | 1/4 ET | 1/4 MPH | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0.845 | 2.565 | 9.861 | 75.27 | 14.897 | 101.69 | First run. Bogged it. |
| 0.320 | 2.553 | 9.626 | 76.36 | 14.637 | 102.50 | Hot-lapped. Spun. |
| 0.827 | 2.710 | 10.065 | 76.43 | 15.056 | 103.17 | Spun then bogged it. |
| 0.663 | 2.685 | 9.938 | 78.11 | 14.876 | 103.66 | Spun like crazy. Hot-lapped. |
| 0.490 | 2.599 | 9.720 | 77.49 | 14.720 | 102.13 | Tried staging rev-limiter at 4k. Spun like crazy. |
| 0.079 | 2.572 | 9.675 | 78.31 | 14.616 | 103.37 | 4k launch, spun. Hot-lapped. |
| 0.941 | 2.337 | 9.352 | 76.76 | 14.343 | 102.90 | 4k launch, feathered the clutch better. Hot-lapped. |
Here is a video of one of the runs taken by Ron M from the SDAC-Chicago club.
Posted in Automotive on December 13, 2010.
The TU Kevlar clutch that I installed back in ’06 failed. It had been slipping for a few weeks, but it was holding as long as I didn’t go over 5psi of boost or so. Eventually any boost would make it slip, so I broke down and replaced it with this one from SPEC. It is their “Stage 3+” which has a full-faced ceramic-type disc with a supposedly-modified pressure plate. The pedal feel is just like stock, so I am skeptical about that last part. It holds well, but the real test won’t be until the summer tires are back on.
The Kevlar clutch was very chattery, especially while backing up. If I tried backing up a hill, the motor would practically try to fly out of the engine bay. I also experienced a bizarre problem on two occasions where I could not release it. This was in heavy stop-and-go traffic. I suspect the disc warped because it started working again once it cooled-down. I expected better longevity from the Kevlar lining. It should have lasted much longer than the 35k I got out of the ceramic puck clutch in the CSX, but it failed right around the same time. It did have a stock-like feel in terms of engagement. As long as the RPMs were high to avoid the chattering, the engagement was smooth and easy to manage.
The SPEC clutch is “grabby”, just like you would expect from a ceramic type, but not “chattery”. In other words, the pedal has a very narrow band in which you can slip it especially at low RPMs. When you do slip it however, it does not chatter or at least not very much. Backing up is not a problem, other than avoiding a stall. The Kevlar disc had a lot of run out form the sloppy spline and that may have contributed to the problem. The SPEC disc was tighter, but still had some run out.
While the clutch was out, I replaced the 3-4 shift form pads again. I also replaced the fork. I noticed the new pads on the 1-2 fork were also starting to crack, right over the groove carved into the fork while the pads were blown 2 years ago. So I replaced that fork as well with another good set of pads. I also swapped 3rd gear and its syncro with another used one that looked better. It’s nice to have 3rd gear again.
Posted in Electronics on April 29, 2010.
George from Tubelab was kind enough to send me his latest PCB and some iron for a test build. Easy build and the result was tossed into a disused lock box.
Posted in Computing on January 24, 2010.
While the merits of Comcast's Digital Transport Adapters are debatable, there is one useful side effect to their existance. Because the are so cheap, they lack a POD tuner. This means that the channel tables are broadcast in-band, which in turn means that a normal QAM tuner can find them. There is a tool called scte65scan that can find these tables using a regular DVB tuner (it also supports the HDHomerun).
Posted in Computing on January 23, 2010.
At some point we will become another victim of Comcast's digital cable "upgrade" plans. We've been an analog cable customer of theirs for about 8 years. The only reason we've stuck with them is because they are the only provider that can give us good ol' NTSC on our coax. That is the only way to have all of our cable programming on more than one TV without paying extra each month for each. In addition to the 3 TVs we also use MythTV for our DVR system, which has 3 NTSC and 2 ATSC/QAM tuners.
We are still getting the analog feed, but last week I finally installed the new digital equipment. Their marketing B.S. is confusing and intentionally misleading, but here is what I have learned from the experience:
Posted in Computing on January 15, 2010.
Release a new CVS snapshot for nedit, mainly to ease installation on top of the snapshot that comes with Ubuntu 9.10.
Posted in Automotive on October 09, 2009.
Re-rewelded the driver's seat frame. It was broken into three pieces and was being held in place by an empty cat litter container. I added some steel to it, so I don't expect it to break again, at least on in that spot. The bottom cushion has a weird feel to it now, probably because it is being properly supported for the first time in years.
The UltraFlo muffler rusted-off. That thing only lasted 3 years...not impressive. Put the Super Turbo back on there...it's no quieter than the UltraFlo (at least on the inside), but maybe it's quieter for the neighbors.
The water pump housing has been leaking for years, but now coolant is dropping at an alarming rate. Not sure if it was the leak or something else, but the housing is now resealed. The car suddenly started using more oil than before as well, so something is clearly amiss. Last time I had the turbo intake off, I saw oil in there. There is still a very small amount of oil in the coolant. Now sure if it's just leftover film or if there is a leak or crack somewhere. I'm guessing that I will find out sooner or later what the issue is/are.