Automotive

1986 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z C/S

This was my last Turbo Dodge daily driver: a 1986 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z C/S, aka "Frankentona".  The "C/S" stands for "Carroll Shelby", which is basically a performance handling package on top of the "Turbo Z" Daytona package.  The C/S package includes a 32mm solid front sway bar and a 28mm solid rear sway bar.  It also includes a set of 15x6.5 inch "crab" rims (in gold for black C/S's), but I got this one with the standard 15x6 inch "pizza" rims.  See Dempsey Bowling's pages for more information on Daytona C/S packages.

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The Daytona: January 21, 2003

Posted on January 21, 2003.

I re-replaced the left-front wheel bearing.  It went rather easily, considering what a pain it can be.  The assembly came out with a sledge and went in easily with a pair of C-clamps.  The only major problem I ran into was that the new rotors had rusted to the new (failed) hub assembly.  Ended up having to use a hydraulic puller and a sledge to get it off.  I think it rusted around the center of the hub, so I dabbed a little anti-seize on there.

For an encore, I went to tighten a hose clamp on the heater bypass valve when it went "click".  Damn, and I was doing so well.  It was a Mopar unit and it was as if the plastic has broken-down.  Instead of being brittle, it had the consistency of hardened rubber hose.  It just crumbled in my fingers.  I had the spare from the Shadow, but since it had the new-style intake (bypass valve under the battery tray), the valve inlet points the wrong way.  I managed to find a nylon elbow that I could use for now.  I bought a new one at Auto-Stoned for $12.  It was the all-plastic one, like the one from my Shadow.  It lasted for over 7 years, so I won't complain.

The Daytona: January 20, 2003

Posted on January 20, 2003.

Had a little scare with the Daytona's engine...thought I blew it.  When I pulled the fuel pressure regulator, the vacuum line appeared to be disconnected.  That may explain why it was running rich, but it shouldn't run at all at 10psi of boost.  Anyway, that coupled with some apparent oil coming out of the dipstick and the fact that is was missing at idle, I thought I cracked a ringland.  Well, I snugged up the dipstick and after installing the new adjustable FPR, it seemed to run fine.  I did a compression check and it was the same as before: about 130psi on all four.  The plugged looked perfect.  I guess I'm OK, but it still starts missing on one cylinder if it is left idling for a while.  That Dawes Devices A/F gauge has rather dim green LEDs, so it's hard to see them in the day and I don't know if I am rich or so lean that I'm off the scale.  I might just install my old Cyberdyne so I can see what is going on.

Since it is an early-style T1 intake, I had to use a universal adjustable fuel pressure regulator from FWD Performance.  I managed to install it in the same location as the stock unit by grinding-out part of the bracket to clear the return line fittings.  I also had to bend the short pipe for the return line on the fuel rail slightly to clear the unit.  The regulator has 3 fittings: two -4 AN fittings on the bottom (outlet in the center and inlet to the side) and a 1/8" NPT pipe fitting on the side for a pressure gauge.  I was lazy and just used two brass 1/4" flare fittings for the inlet and outlet.  I placed an o-ring at the base of the flare fitting threads, which sealed the fitting to the regulator housing.  I also used Teflon tape on the threads so the threads were not so loose.  I then wedged a piece of aluminum between the two fittings so they would not turn when I installed the rest of the brass pipe fittings.  I enlarged the hole in the stock bracket slightly and used the 1/4" NPT street elbow to mount the regulator to the bracket (between the elbow and flare fitting).  A 1/4" NPT to 3/8" hose adapter was mounted to the elbow (inlet) and a 1/4" NPT to 1/4" hose adapter to the center flare fitting (outlet).  In order to the fuel gauge fitting to face upwards, the elbow is rotated such that it is pointing somewhat towards the valve cover, similar to the stock regulator.  It's a little tight between the two hose fittings, but it works and looks decent.

The Daytona: January 16, 2003

Posted on January 16, 2003.

Haven't done much due to time constraints.  The gas mileage is really poor, maybe due to the stock FPR being unable to dump off the extra fuel from the Walbro 192 fuel pump.  Time to put the adjustable unit in, I guess.  I also bought new GM "WeatherPack" connectors for the coolant and air charge temp sensors.  They both have broken tabs and the coolant sensor code keeps getting set.  I will also be stripping the interior from a fellow club member's '86 Laser with the same interior color.  The Daytona's interior has many broken parts, so hopefully I'll be able to get one good interior from the two.

The Daytona: December 23, 2002

Posted on December 23, 2002.

Fixed a few odds and ends on the days I had off from work.  The big thing was the driver's side door.  It has a new latch, new pins and bushings, and I repaired the door jam wiring.  The window still gets cocked funny on the way up, which causes it to hang up.  The rubber is in really bad shape, so I'm sure that is not helping.  It's nice to have a fully-working door, though.  Removing the lower door pin is a real PITA.  After trying several approaches, I had to Dremel part of the bottom tip off so that I could get a C-clamp in there and press it out.  There is no way to punch it out with those damn Turbo Z ground effects in the way.  I supported the door with rope strung over the garage ceiling rafters, looped through two holes in the door frame.

The Daytona: December 16, 2002

Posted on December 16, 2002.

Got the fuel tank to stop leaking, finally.  The lock ring was definitely not tightened all the way, but I decided to drop the tank anyway and fix it right.  The gasket was still in good condition, but I flared the sealing surface out a bit to make it squeeze the gasket harder, just in case.  Also fixed the alignment tabs so the sender was oriented properly.  I still need to do something about the connectors, as the gauge never shows full and I never get more than 10 gallons in when empty.  There is also a grounding problem back there, I think, which may have something to do with it.