Automotive

1986 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z C/S

This was my last Turbo Dodge daily driver: a 1986 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z C/S, aka "Frankentona".  The "C/S" stands for "Carroll Shelby", which is basically a performance handling package on top of the "Turbo Z" Daytona package.  The C/S package includes a 32mm solid front sway bar and a 28mm solid rear sway bar.  It also includes a set of 15x6.5 inch "crab" rims (in gold for black C/S's), but I got this one with the standard 15x6 inch "pizza" rims.  See Dempsey Bowling's pages for more information on Daytona C/S packages.

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The Daytona: May 23, 2008

Posted on May 23, 2008.

Last night/this morning I finally fixed a few pressing issues.  One was the boot on the driver's inner CV joint had chewed through itself a while ago and I've been meaning to put a new one one there for some time.  I discovered that the Driveshaft Shop Level 3 axles have the tripods welded to the shafts, so they have to be taken apart from the outer CV end.  Also, the inner joints have some kind of fiber reinforced plastic cap that seems to be there to keep the tripod in the tulip housing.  The problem is the boot seals to the cap and the cap seals to the tulip with a rubber seal.  On the other axle, grease is coming out between the cap and the tulip, so I am going to have to deal with that at some point.

The big project was replacing the shift fork pads on the 1-2 and 3-4 forks.  I've been limping 3rd gear along for over a year now, as I cheezed it pretty bad on a hard shift one day but it was still usable.  A week or so ago I did the same to 2nd gear, rendering it useless.  I hoped it was just the pads and so I bought some new ones.  Thankfully, that's all it was.  The trans looked clean inside, though the sprags for 3rd and especially for 2nd gear are pretty chewed up.  It shifts great now, so I am not going to worry about it.

Finally, both of the outer tie rod ends are so sloppy that they have about 1/2" of play now.  They are only a few years old, so no more Moog suspension parts for me.  I got the more expensive ones from NAPA (Spicer I think).  Same brand as the new ball joints that replaced the failed Moog joints and are holding up well.

The Daytona: April 23, 2008

Posted on April 23, 2008.

Still my daily driver.  Been collecting some odds and ends that should hopefully help the spool department: A Turbos Unleashed cast log header and Turbonetics T03/T04E hybrid single ball bearing turbo with a "Super 50" compressor and a Stage II exhaust turbine in a .63 A/R housing attached to a Turbos Unleashed 3" swing valve (whew).  The header, housing, and swing valve are all ceramic thermal coated to keep temps down and gas velocities high.  The turbo flange on the header is larger than it should be, so I will likely need to port the housing flange somewhat.

The Super 70 and ported exhaust manifold that is in there now will end up in the CSX once I get a new cylinder head for it.  Trouble is the CSX needs to be running before I put this setup in there....

The Daytona: June 5, 2007

Posted on June 05, 2007.

Drove the car all winter and spring without any major issues.  The most annoying thing that happened was when the adjustable cam sprocket came loose and the car wouldn't start late at night in the parking lot at work.  I was able to snug it up with some vice grips and get home.  I've got a stock sprocket on there now.

I recently replaced the stock headlamps with a Hella H4 "Free Form" conversion kit and built a relay module so that the lights got power directly from the battery.  I measured an over 3.5V drop through the stock headlight circuit.  The housings are DOT approved and I am using the standard 65/55W bulbs.  The light pattern is much better than a standard sealed-beam lamp and they run nice and bright with the extra voltage.  If you are thinking about a HID conversion for better visbility (and not because you think they are pretty), do the H4 conversion and relay mod instead.  The on-coming drivers will thank you (I hate HIDs).

The Daytona: November 8, 2006

Posted on November 08, 2006.

The stupid cheesy plastic draincock on the brand new radiator broke on the way to work.  Stuffed a rag in the hole and limped back home.  What a crappy design.  Anyway, I did a few other odds and ends while I was at it, including the installation of the correct throttle cable.  I also got the interior all cleaned up nice and managed to take some pics of the inside and the outside (it's a little dirty on the outside, but oh well).

I'm really happy with how the guage pod and mounts turned out.

The Daytona: November 6, 2006

Posted on November 06, 2006.

Drove it around a bit over the weekend.  Took it to work today and romped on it a bit.  The Super 70 is a bit more laggy, but it's not anywhere near as bad as I thought it might be.  Also, the intake temps are just a few degrees above ambient...this intercooler is the bomb.  It's pretty peppy even when the turbo is lagging and man this sucker moves when the boost hits.  It will be interesting to see how it works once I start cranking it up.  Right now it's on the stock cal with the fuel pressure turned way down.  It won't go low enough in vacuum, so it makes it a little lean further up the scale since the autotrim gets a little out of whack.  It's like 10.5:1 at WOT, but if I leave part throttle it HAULS.